一本發行全世界的紅色指南，每年一 到公布時間，就讓許多頂尖廚師的心情七 上八下，他們焦急的不只是有沒有摘星， 同時，也包含了是否掉星。日前《2020 台北台中米其林指南》結果公佈，除了 餐廳主廚們幾家歡樂幾家愁，看在饕客 眼裡，也忍不住為那些沒摘星的餐廳大 抱不平，並且大嘆:「米其林指南的美食評審團怎會忘了它呢？」
《米其林指南》對於美食的評級分類可 區分為三類，三星為餐廳擁有卓越烹調， 值得專程訪；烹調出色，不容錯過的餐 廳則是二星，一星則是優質烹調，不妨 一試。而細數今年《2020 台北台中米其 林指南》中的 79 家餐盤推薦餐廳。其中， The Ukai Taipei 源自於日本的 Ukai 集團 旗下的 Ukai-tei，Ukai-tei 是全世界最先 以鐵板燒料理摘星的餐廳，且擁有多年 摘星紀錄，The Ukai Taipei 傳承了本店 原汁原味的本店精神，菜單由日籍主廚 依照每季更替，且提供了細膩的日式服務，此外，還擁有了位居微 風南山 46 樓居高臨下的遼闊視野，而最讓饕客讚賞的是來自日本田村牧場的純種黑毛和牛，經鐵板燒香煎後所散發的誘人飄香，與品嘗時油花豐富、口感軟 嫩的美妙滋味，此外，傳承自 Ukai-tei 本 店 40 年技法的鮑魚岩鹽蒸也是備受推崇 的經典菜色，若按照可以摘下一星的評 選標準是優質烹調，不妨一試，The Ukai Taipei 沒有摘下一星，實在讓人不解。
位於北義大利杜林 (Torino)的米 其林一星餐廳 Trattoria Zappatori 主廚 Christian Milone 連年摘星，日前則再獲 一星，其廚藝與菜色備受肯定，曾來台多 次客座的他，首間海外分店 CROM Taipei 去年 12 月開幕，菜單上多是移植本店菜 色，且配方與手法強調北義技法，只有在 醬汁、食材等增加風味與些許層次變化， 主打的經典菜包含北義風味小牛肉鮪魚醬、捏捏餃等，而今年疫情關係， Christian Milone 即使暫時不能來台，最新推出的菜色甜蝦番茄液態沙拉、番紅 花起司燉飯與檸檬酪梨蛤蜊手工細麵等， 也是他親自傳授菜單給在台的義大利籍 副主廚所烹調而成，一道道都可品嘗到 北義菜色的正統滋味，卻不受到米其林 美食評鑑員的青睞，也令饕客感到惋惜。
而位於台北市北投山上的北投麗禧酒店，雖然客套房僅有 66 間，但是主打高 級的服務、設備與周邊山區的自然愜意 環境，不只房價動輒破萬，且長久以來 房價之高，名列台北市觀光飯店類之首。 一般而言，米其林指南推薦從三方面空 間、菜色與服務加以評鑑，細看歐陸餐 廳內的空間環境怡人，不只有新鮮蘭花 在空間四周裝飾，且用餐時，可一邊欣 賞戶外綠意山景視，不僅視野更是遼闊， 且增添了不少愜意氛圍，若是談及餐廳， 此處的精緻餐點，融合歐陸手法與在地食 材的經典菜色，包含岩燒龍蝦、威靈頓牛排等，讓饕客回味再三， 最後，則是比照奢華酒店的服務，讓不少在此消費的高端客群頗為滿意，若是綜合以上三點， 最讓忠實顧客不解的是館內的歐陸餐廳 怎麼會餐盤推薦都未能取得，也讓餐廳成為饕客心中的遺珠之憾。
事實上，米其林指南每年公布，不論是餐廳方或是饕客都不需得失心太重，今年 的遺珠之憾，或許明年就有摘星機會，反 正還有一年時間可以準備與調整，而就饕 客而言，就算是沒有摘星，個人對於餐廳的評價才是關鍵，而且，持續的上門消費， 其實就是對於餐廳最好的支持了! （本文刊登於Vintage Square 富豪人生2020年10月號）
The Michelin Guide Taipei & Taichung 2020 has just been published. But some excellent restaurants loved by many foodies are not listed in the guide. Let’s see the Michelin’s snubs in Taiwan.
Every year before the new Michelin Guide gets announced, many chefs get nervous, worrying about whether their restaurants will be given or, worse, lose stars. Recently, the Michelin Guide Taipei & Taichung 2020 was published. Surely, some chefs got excited— but more chefs were disappointed. Also, many foodies complained about a number of notable snubs.
Among the 79 restaurants recommended in Michelin Plate, is The Ukai Taipei, which inherited the spirit of the Japanese restaurant Ukai-Tei. Ukai-Tei was the first Michelin- starred teppanyaki restaurant in the world. The Japanese chef of The Ukai Taipei changes the menu according to the seasons, and offers intimate service to all guests. The restaurant, located on the 46th floor of Breeze Nanshan, also allows the guests to have a wonderful view while dining. The most popular dish in The Ukai Taipei is the Japanese Wagyu steak. It uses Wagyu beef from Tamura farm. The fried beef has a fascinating aroma, is rich in fat and tastes very soft. Also worth a try is the salt baked abalone, originally served in Ukai-Tei in Japan. If one-starred restaurants are worth a try, it is confusing why The Ukai Taipei was left out.
The one-starred restaurant Trattoria Zapptori located in Torino, Italy, has been given Michelin stars for many years in a row. The chef Christian Milone’s techniques and dishes are highly appreciated and praised. He has come to Taiwan for a stint as a guest chef many times. His first overseas branch, CROM Taipei, opened last December. CROM Taipei offers most of the same dishes as in Italy. The menu emphasizes the traditional techniques of northern Italy, and only slightly adjusts the sauces or ingredients for Taiwanese guests.
Because of the pandemic, Milone could not come to Taiwan this year. However, CROM Taipei is still serving up Milone’s signature dishes, including the Vitello Tonnato and Italian dumplings. Milone also taught the Italian sous chef some dishes like amaebi tomato liquid salad, acquerello risotto with saffron, and homemade spaghetti with clams and lime avocado. Through these dishes, guests can get to know the true tastes of traditional cuisine from northern Italy. But, it’s a pity that the Michelin judges do not appreciate them.
The Grand View Resort Beitou has only 66 guest rooms but it is still highly regarded for its high-quality service, facilities and beautiful mountain views. The price of a night’s stay is among one of the most expensive in Taipei City. Usually, the Michelin Guide evaluates a restaurant from three perspectives: the interior, the cuisine and the service. The French restaurant of the Grand View Resort Beitou, C’est Bon, has comfortable dining facilities and wonderful views. The interior is decorated with fresh orchids, and the guests can appreciate the green mountain views from the window. C’est Bon also offers delicate European-style cuisine, such as the baked lobster and beef Wellington. Furthermore, C’est Bon also offers the high-quality service one would expect from a luxury hotel striving to satisfy high-end consumers. C’est Bon performs very well in its interior design, its dishes and its service. The royal guests of C’est Bon might wonder why the judges did not give it any stars nor a place in Michelin Plate.
Regardless, restaurants and foodies need not feel disappointed, as The Michelin Guide is updated every year. Therefore, those restaurants without stars still have a year to adjust. For guests, Michelin Guide is only a reference. Everyone has their own standards for evaluating a restaurant. Going to your favorite restaurant and ordering a dish is the best way to show solidarity for these hard working but seemingly underappreciated chefs. (The article has been published in Vintage Square in October issue in 2020. )